T Bucket Chassis
29 A Roof Fill
29 A Sport Coupe
30 AA Truck
30 Ford A Woody Camper
31 Chevy Coupe
36 Plymoth Mustang II
37 Chevy Coupe
1941 Cadillac Tudor Sedan
46 Dodge Truck
47 Dodge Sedan Rod
48 Chevy Truck
49 Chevy 3100 Pkup
49 Caddilac Sedan
50 Chevallac Frame
50 Chevy Pkup Chop
1950 Chevrolet Kustom Pickup
55 Merc Build Book
56 Chevy 4 Dr Htp
57 Chevy Hardtop
65 SS Impala Conv
67 Dart GTS
67 C10 Kustom

1947 through 1953 Chevy Cab Chop


This early Chevy 47-53 Pickup cab is going to get it lid lowered by 3”. Our customer is doing his own truck but wanted the chop done by a pro.


Before we started all doors were fitted, hinges bent or adjusted for a perfect fit and alignment. Don’t even think about starting before you get them all adjusted, no chance later on!!

Always brace and set the cab so it can not move. Even a 32nd of an inch can create some real problems when you try to refit the doors.


Note the cross brace on doors and diagonal brace from side to side.

One more look with out the doors and the interior cleaned out. Be sure the cab is on solid platform so the cab is solid and square. We had a small wood buck set up just for the cab.

Another shot, all the glass is out, trim removed, doors off and floor inspected for weak spots. The more stuff out of the way the better.

On this one we are going to use the top from another cab donor. We will use the front part as the back has some dents and damage.

The cuts are determined by the best place to refit the parts back together. A cut off, reciprocating saw or plasma works well for most of the cuts. You may need several types of cutters for different areas.


Note the sleeve in the windshield post. Always sleeve the joints to assure a strong joint, good alignment and some extra material for welding just incase there is a goof??

The front roof is cut longer and sleeved under the rear portion to provide a double layer of steel and prevent the roof from drooping, more on this later.


The front posts are moved in slightly to meet the top. The rear inner metal is sleeved just like the top and the outside metal is notched to help alignment and fitting.

Now this is how they should have been made. 3” chop make a very different look and is just about right on these cabs. The center windshield bar still has to be welded in.

The back corners need some relief and radius cuts to create a smooth corner. Don’t go to crazy and do lots of cutting and welding, or dip the corner to far. The back window needed some relief and realignment as well to line up properly.

Here the metal has been welded and ground smooth. The door tops have been fitted, welded and finished off. On these there is an outside trim piece as well that needs to be modified.

A side shot with everything in place and a fiberglass filler is used to seal any pinholes to prevent moisture from coming through. Note the door gaps and alignment. If the cab had moved or the doors had not been set, it would be a disaster to get straight now!!

Here is an inside shot of the two roofs overlapping Note the double line of welds to hold it together. This helps alignment and give a good strong roof.


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