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30 AA Truck
30 Ford A Woody Camper
31 Chevy Coupe
36 Plymoth Mustang II
37 Chevy Coupe
1941 Cadillac Tudor Sedan
46 Dodge Truck
47 Dodge Sedan Rod
48 Chevy Truck
49 Chevy 3100 Pkup
49 Caddilac Sedan
50 Chevallac Frame
50 Chevy Pkup Chop
1950 Chevrolet Kustom Pickup
55 Merc Build Book
56 Chevy 4 Dr Htp
57 Chevy Hardtop
65 SS Impala Conv
67 Dart GTS
67 C10 Kustom


Current Project,
Custom truck, 1967 C-10 Chevrolet .5 ton long box.  Work to be done: Justin decided he wanted to have a Kustom truck instead of a new one. Chop the top 3", suicide the doors, custom front and rear pans, taillights, smooth box, lower truck 5" and lots more!

Click pictures for a larger view.

This is how we got the truck. Rockers, cab corners, doors and floor had been repaired and replaced.
Good intentions, but the doors didn't fit. We reworked rockers, cab corners and floor.
With the metal reworked the doors fit fine and an even gap all around (paint stick thickness)
Once the doors were fitted other areas were started, here the door handles are filled.
The next step is chop the top. The first step is get doors fitted! Then brace the cab so nothing moves. Seen too many who did not brace and wondered why nothing fit!!
A 3" mark is made from the center line of the window on the back. Line is traced to inside also.
The doors and front posts are marked also. Note the front post is cut at a higher point than rear. This is where the post is the same size, it gets bigger as you go down.
We decided not to bend posts in on this one. That means cut the top in 4 sections. We wanted to minimize the cuts to the interior ribs so the line at the back. Also put cut and weld next to existing seam.
Here the top is cut and the drop is shown by the door. The roof has not been sectioned yet.
Here are the cuts and the pieces being clamped in place.
Another shot of the windshield post. No bending or slanting of post, it affects too many other areas. 
This is a shot of the back window before splitting the top. Want to make sure things look ok.
We started with the back first and tacked it in place. Note the 3" sleeve left on the inside to help fitting. A sleeve was put on the outside as well.
With the back spotted the front sections are fitted and spotted. Window openings are triple checked for square. 
The top is on, back is welded on and filler strips are added where needed.
The front is a challenge with all the dips and curves for the windshield. Make sure its all square!
On the sides we started with the door opening first so we can make sure they are straight! Sleeves were added at all splices.
The top is on!! All 4 pieces are in place and filled.
The top is taken off before final welding to finish the inside. Much easier with it off. A filler was put between the dome light and ribs. Center ribs were filled to make one larger rib. 
Now for the fun! 56 Chevy front door hinges are added to the rear door jamb and braced to back of cab.
The door jamb has panels welded in to smooth it. A 10 gauge plate is added behind jamb for added strength. Hinges must have "J" hook or will not work. 
The time consuming part is the front jamb. A 10 gauge plate is made to conform to front fender and welded to door jamb. 
Guides are welded to the new jamb plate and a removable cover is made to hold the latch. All connections to the latch will be accessed here. 
The door is smoothed and only the latch stud shows. 
Here is what a suicide door looks like open! Lots of room to get in and out.
The box is taken completely apart and checked over. A solid steel bed will be installed.
With the sides off we found rust along the inside floor. A second box was found and those sides will be used.
The tailgate was cut to replace the outside skin with a smooth one, inside handle will be installed.
The new skin is fitted and welded on. Internal bracing was added, 2" round on the bottom and 2" brace through the center, skin is "panel bonded" to inner supports.
The bed and rails were marginal, we used 10 gauge steel with 2 x 3 tubes as stringers, extra supports were added and everything spot welded in place. 
With the new floor bed in place the sides and front are put in place. No welds inside the box, all smooth seams.
The rear pan is an aftermarket unit, lots cheaper to buy and modify.
To French the Corvette taillights, we rolled tubes from 20 gauge. 
A low profile taillight set up. All will work as turn/brake/taillights
The angle was cut from the sides and spot weld holes punched. 1/4" angle was added to the side of floor as a guide and weld area.
The Cadillac power seats had an adapter tube added and mounted to the floor. Note the project has gone to the dogs!
A piece of exhaust pipe works well for "frenching" the antenna. Drain tube is also added inside.
An aftermarket front roll pan is fitted and then welded to the lower grill surround. Will be welded to fenders on fill fitting.
Front pan is welded. Note the headlight rings, we will be flattening the grill and front end for a different effect.
A plate with Chevy Bowtie was cut out and fitted in the grill opening. A grill will be recessed behind it to finish it off. 
We use Honda window slides. They fit very easily and work very well, also not expensive. 
Weld Wheels, Scorpio style, 16" with 225/50/16 front and 295/50/16 rear, 8" and 10" width.
Progress, fender wells have been painted, steering column shortened and reinstalled along with brakes.
Finally getting to paint. Here the back of the cab is painted as well as the front of the box. We want to paint the truck as one assembly.
The side flames are taped off and ready for a slight change in color and some highlighting.
The hood is taped off and ready for painting the flames.
The flames are on and ready for a final buffing.
It's now ready for the upholstery shop, the white box is the bass woofer for the stereo.
Interior is in and at its first show.
Same show, rear shot.

 

 

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